Saturday, 4 June 2016

Portuguese Voyage - Stop 4: Sintra (Days 12 & 13) - In a Fairy Tale

Romantic, magical, mythical. These are the words I would use to describe Sintra.

A hill station located 40 minutes north-west of Lisboa, whereby you can catch a train from Lisboa's Rossio train station to reach it. Most people visit Sintra for a day, but I highly recommend you spend two days (stay one night) in Sintra to fully draw in the magnetism, that is Sintra.

On the way from Sintra train station to the Sintra city centre

Palace of Sintra

When one thinks of Sintra, one thinks of Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace), which means Feather Palace in English (it certainly is as 'flamboyant' as a feather!) You can take a bus up to the palace from the Sintra city or hike up. I chose to hike up, which is an approximate 40-minute hike.

On the way up




When I read of woods in storybooks, this is exactly what I imagined - green and lush! I felt I was in Wonderland with Alice... lol.

When I finally reached the ticket counter, I was relieved, thinking the palace is just there. BUT from the ticket counter, there is another 1 km walk up to reach the palace! Nevertheless, the walk up is picturesque...






...and when you reach the palace, it is all worthwhile!

Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace)
The palace was commissioned by Ferdinand August Franz Anton from Austria, who married into the Portuguese royal family and became King Ferdinand II. King Ferdinand II wished to build a castle to rival the Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. His only instruction was that the palace should reflect an opera - the palace surely is dramatic!




The palace is a prominent expression of late 18th century/ 19th-century Romanticism in the world.

*Romanticism - is an artistic, literary, and intellectual movement that originated in Europe toward the end of the 18th century and was at its peak in the mid-19th century. Resulted partly from the libertarian and egalitarian ideals of the French Revolution, and partly a reaction to the aristocratic social and political norms of the Age of Enlightenment and the scientific rationalisation of nature. Romanticism emphasised individualism, subjectivity, irrationality, imagination, spontaneity, emotions, personality, the visionary, and the transcendental.*


The palace has a mixture of different architectural styles: Gothic, Manueline, Islamic, and Renaissance - in accordance with the extravagant style of Romanticism.


Gargoyle - symbolising the creation of the world



There is so much to explore in the palace and its surrounding grounds. I wonder, why hasn't this palace been featured in any movies, or why are there no fairy-tale palaces based on this unique palace?

Just a 5-minutes walk from the palace is the Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors) - a medieval castle perched on top of Sintra Mountains, overlooking Sintra city.


View of Sintra city
The castle was constructed during the 8th and 9th centuries, during the period of Muslim Iberia. It was taken by Christian forces from the Moors after the fall of Lisboa.

The entrance

Walk towards the castle


The castle


View of the surrounding estates from the castle
You can also see the Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace) from the castle.


Majestic and fairy-tale like

Equally as resplendent as the palace, and somewhat spiritual, is the Quinta da Regaleira. The Quinta da Regaleira is located in the Sintra city area - hence, no hiking needed :D

The Romantic Regaleira Palace
The estate is like a treasure hunt - there are so many things to discover: lakes, wells, grottoes, fountains, and other fascinating constructions.









The famous Initiation Well
The well never served as a water source. Instead, it was used for ceremonial purposes that included Tarot initiation rites.

Passage in the well

Threshold of the Gods

Threshold of the Gods

The gardens with the chapel in view

Chapel
There is an extensive and enigmatic system of tunnels, which have multiple entry points that include: grottoes, the chapel, Waterfall Lake, and Leda's Cave. The Initiation Well connects to other tunnels via a series of underground walkways. Mysterious much?

There was so much thought put into the details of the palace as well.

Door knob

Fireplace

View of the garden

Palace walkway


Why do I say it is spiritual? In addition to the Tarot initiation, the design of the palace and the surrounding gardens were meant to signify the transition from dark to light. For example, the tunnels - moving from dark to light (bad energy to good energy, evolving to a higher spiritual state).  

A passage found on one of the walls in the Regaleira Palace
No wonder I have an affinity for this place - it is so me! (I am into all these 'energy', spirituality kind of thing. Yes, I am a quack! Lol)

*All three sights are classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.*

Am I right to say Sintra is mythical? :D

If you stay the night, you can take a bus to Cabo da Roca to catch the sunset. The bus ride is about 30 minutes. Cabo da Roca is the cape which forms the westernmost area of continental Europe.

View from the bus on the way to Cabo da Roca



Deeply serene!

*Please note that the last bus from Cabo da Roca to Sintra is at 8.10pm. Plan your visit accordingly so you can spend more time at Cabo da Roca.*

Now, on to the food - more like pastries :D! When in Sintra, please do savour the Queijada de Sintra (Sintra Cheesecake) and the Sintra Travesseiros (means pillow in English), at none other than the Pastelaria Piriquita.

Pastelaria Piriquita
The Queijada de Sintra is not the typical American cheesecake. It is made with fresh cheese and has a noticeable cinnamon flavour - a reflection of Portugal's Moorish past. It reportedly dates back to the 13th/ 14th century.



The Sintra Travesseiros is a flaky pastry stuffed with almonds, egg, and sugar paste - the pastry is so soft that it melts in your mouth! Scrumptious! (The pastry reminds me of the Chinese pancake.) 


Having these, fresh out of the oven, with meia de leite, after a long day of exploring and hiking - BLISS!

Sintra city

View of Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors) from Sintra city

Alleys of Sintra city

Before you leave Sintra, do have lunch at the unconventional and the rather kitschy Café Saudade.


The café has some history attached to it

The café is located near the Sintra train station. I love the 'I want to save the world', hippie vibes, the café exudes. The food is delectable too! 

Tasca platter (comes with olives, sardines, queijada and a glass of wine)

It took me a while to leave this alluring city. After 2 days in Sintra, I took the train back to Lisboa, to fully revel in Lisboa for the night, before flying off to Madeira the next morning, in hopes of meeting Cristiano Ronaldo...lol.


 Vamos para a Madeira!

Thursday, 2 June 2016

Portuguese Voyage - Day Trips: Cascais and Évora - Day trips from Lisboa

Just a 30-min train ride away from the Lisboa's Cais do Sodré railway station is the pretty coastal town of Cascais - former fishing village and the birthplace of Belcanto's José Avillez :D

View from the train

Cascais





If the weather is right, you can tan on the beach or take a dip in the inviting waters of the Atlantic Ocean.






Quaint alleys


Looking for a place to have a delicious, healthy treat? Head to Cafe Galeria House of Wonders. When I heard of this restaurant that serves raw, organic, vegan food, I HAD to go there. It screams my name! (I am no vegan, but I am into all these raw, organic kind of food).

*Raw food diet: uncooked, unprocessed or foods cooked using very low temperature (<118 degree Celsius) to preserve the natural enzymes in the food, ensuring they are closest to their natural form. The foods used are usually organic.*

The selection of the raw foods of the day- usually changes daily
The person who makes the raw food is an ex-model - awesome right!

Instead of the raw food option, you can opt for the salad buffet instead, which comes with some special bread. :)

View from the roof of the cafe

You can spend some time basking in the sun, after lunch, sipping meia de leite, whilst enjoying the view :)

Desfrute de Cascais!


Évora - the capital of Portugal's south central region of Alentejo whose roots go back to the Roman times. (And more vinho! :D)

Templo Romano de Diana (Temple of Diana) with a traditional Pousada on the right 
Templo Romano de Diana (Temple of Diana)

Another distinct quality of Évora is the whitewashed houses decorated with azulejos and wrought-iron balconies dating back to the 16th-18th century.

Historical city of Évora

View from Jardim Diana (Diana Garden)
View from the Sé de Évora (Cathedral of Évora)







Traditional alleys

Another unique monument in Évora is the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), which I unfortunately, or fortunately, didn't go to. Apparently the interior walls are covered with human skulls and bones. *Eek!*

From Lisboa, you will need to take a bus from the Sete Rios Bus Station to reach Évora. The Sete Rios Bus Station is located on the north side of Lisboa and you must take a metro from the city centre to the bus station. The bus ride to Évora is approximately 2 hours, but it is a pleasant journey. It is your chance to go on the 25 de Abril Bridge and see the Cristo Rei and the famous Aqueduto das Águas Livres up close.

View from the bus

*Note: In Portugal, you will notice there are many products made from sobreiro (cork) sold as souvenirs (a variety of things including shoes). This is because Alentejo is the world's most important area for growing cork. The cork-oak has been grown commercially for the past 300 years!*


That's a wrap! See you in magical Sintra!