Portuguese Voyage - Stop 3: Lisboa (Days 7 - 11) - Slowly Falling In Love with Lisbon......(Almost ending)

Belém. Due to its location - at the mouth of the Rio Tejo (River Tagus),  it was a site for the Portuguese explorers to set sail - Vasco Da Gama set sail from the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower).

There are a few significant landmarks located in Belém that warrant a visit!

Torre de Belém (Belém Tower)

You can take a city bus to Belém, which is only a 15-minute bus ride away.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries)
In commemoration of the 500th death anniversary of Henry the Navigator

The Portuguese are very proud of their discoveries and zest for exploration that there is a museum, Maritime Museum in Belém, dedicated to all aspects of their discoveries and naval achievement! It is an interesting museum and one of the most important in Europe. Why so? The moment Vasco Da Gama steered around the Cape of Good Hope, completing Bartolomeu Dias' voyage, and docked in Calicut, India - from then on, it was the most GLORIOUS period in the Portuguese history. They monopolised the spice trade, which evoked the jealousy in other European nations. After a century, the Dutch, British, French and Danish finally broke the Portuguese monopoly and colonialism.

*Way back then, Asia, to the Europeans, were synonymous with luxury, exquisite, precious - just like France in the 18th century - unbelievable right?*

The taxes earned from the monopoly of the spices funded the construction of the enchanting Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). It is one of the most important examples of the Portuguese Manueline style of architecture. The monastery was built to support pilgrims who travelled the region and served as a church for seafaring individuals who embarked during the Age of Discovery.

Captivating isn't it? The details and intricacy of the carvings are fascinating. As you can see, I didn't take many pictures as I was just so mesmerised!

As mentioned in my previous post, the Manueline-style architecture incorporates elements of discoveries brought from the voyages of Vasco Da Gama and others. I wonder, could it have come from the carvings of the Indian temples?

Khajuraho Group of Monuments, India

Just a thought......

*Both the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower were classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1983.*

There are not only landmarks to see in Belém, the best Pastel de nata (Portuguese egg tarts) are found here as well - at Pasteis de Belém.

The tart is not too sweet, not too egg-y and the pastry - flaky and puff-pastry like! They also serve it piping hot, fresh out of the oven...Divino!
If you have time, do explore the cafe - the story of the making of the Pastel de nata is depicted on the walls of the cafe and you can also see how they make the Pastel de nata.

You cannot leave Portugal without having at least one egg tart!

Other things to see in Belém: Praça Afonso de Albuquerque (Afonso de Albuquerque Square)
He captured Malacca in 1511

After exploring Belém, you can walk along the river bank from the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) to the Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge) - a scenic 30-min walk.

The bridge and Cristo Rei in view

Once you reach the bridge, you can walk another 1.5km to LxFactory. It is a former factory area which has been converted to an area with many independent retail outlets, cafes, restaurants and a club - a really cool concept!

The LxFactory is located in the Alcântara area of Lisboa. To head back to the city centre, you will need to take a bus.

Now, why is the bridge called the 25th of April? Let's take a look at a very summarised timeline below:

Please bear in mind this is extremely summarised and more focused on Lisboa :S.

Back to the bridge - there was a revolution on 25th April 1974 that led to Portugal's independence. Hence the name of the bridge - to commemorate the Carnation Revolution. Although it is often likened to the Golden Gate Bridge, it was built by the American Bridge Company, which constructed the San Francisco–Oakland Bay Bridge, not the Golden Gate Bridge!

I was surprised when I found out that Portugal was under a dictatorship for approximately 40 years. Like most dictatorships, they retard the growth of a country. However, in my opinion, it could have been a reason why Portugal is quite progressive and modern now - the independence from the dictatorship probably jumpstarted their growth to the latest infrastructure, technologies, etc.

Ok, I thought this would be my last post on Lisboa, but it is already wayyyy too long! One more post - that's it! I promise! Just 2 more things to highlight... :D

Boa noite!

Portuguese Voyage - Stop 2: Coimbra (Day 6) - With a Pit Stop in Aveiro

There are two train routes you can take from Porto to Coimbra. I recommend taking the route that transits at Aveiro. This will give you a few hours to roam the city before heading to quaint little Coimbra.

Aveiro is known as 'Portuguese Venice'. There are canals, bridges, and boats called moliceiros, however, in my opinion, it is slightly overstated :S

Nevertheless, it is a pretty little city to wander around. There are lovely beaches on its coast, São Jacinto, Barra and Costa Nova, which unfortunately I did not go to, as time and weather were not on my side.

I arrived early in Aveiro to some rather heavy rain. The first place I went to is Cha & Bolachas for breakfast. The cafe is located downtown, in the Mercado Manuel Firmino.

Coffee Loveeeeee

English Breakfast (in Portugal) :S

The cafe is a small, cosy restaurant which is famous for its cakes. The cafe owner is a warm lady who literally embraced me when I walked in (she probably thought "Poor girl walking in the rain with her bag in tow"..lol). She graciously offered to keep my bag in her kitchen while I roamed around the city.

*You may be wondering why the cafe has the word 'Cha' (tea) in it. Tea is prominent everywhere around Portugal. Again, brought back from the maritime expedition in the 15th/16th century in Asia. The Brits owe it to a Portuguese, Catarina de Bragança (Catherine of Braganza), who introduced tea to the kingdom.*

What I really liked about Aveiro is that the shopping mall, Forum Aveiro, is built along the canal - an example of modern-day construction whilst still preserving the natural landscape. Love that!

Forum Aveiro along the canal

Inside roads - away from the canal

You can take a ride on the moliceiros along the canal. One of the stops on this ride is a SALT MINE! Yeap.... the Portuguese produces salt - could this be a reason why they eat so much salt - because they have it in abundance? Lol

Also, when in Aveiro, be sure to try the Ovos Moles de Aveiro (which literally means, Soft Eggs from Aveiro). This was made a Protected Geographical Indication (please click here for more information), in 2006. It is a local delicacy of Aveiro made from egg yolks and sugar.

I tried one in Confeitaria Peixinho - not too sweet, but so egg-y. I love eggs, but this is taking it to a whole new level.

Ovos Moles

*Another fact: The Portuguese love eggs - think Pastel de Nata, Ovos Moles, and many other pastries have an egg-based filling.*

I also had the almond cookie, Almendrados, at Confeitaria Peixinho. That I love! In fact, I love anything almond: almond milk, almond cookies, almond ice cream, the list goes on....

Almendrados

Fully satiated, I resumed my journey to Coimbra!


I AM IN LOVE WITH COIMBRA! It is one of the most charming medieval cities I have ever been to!

Located in central Portugal, it is the former capital of Portugal (in the 1100s - 1200s). Around the end of the Middle Ages, it declined as the political centre of Portugal and began to evolve into a major cultural centre. This was largely due to the establishment the Universidade de Coimbra (University of Coimbra) in the late 1200s. The university is the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world - Cool huh! Interestingly, many of the buildings from when Coimbra was the capital still remain.

Outside the city walls

Into the medieval city

Guitarra Portuguesa (Portuguese guitar)

Sé Velha (Old Cathedral) - Romanesque facade

Gothic cloister in the cathedral

Peek-a-boo

You can walk the cobbled streets up to the University. The view of Coimbra and the Mondego River from the university is beautiful. Up at the university, I command you (yes, I am using the word, 'command') to visit the Biblioteca Joanina (Joanina Library), the Baroque library of the University.
It is outstandingly stunning beyond words! (You will thank me for it :D)

I just love libraries and imagine having one like that in your home! :)

Closely linked to the university traditions is the Fado Coimbra - a type of musical genre.

*Fado comes from the Latin word fatum, from which the English word 'fate' also originates.*

There are 2 types of Fado in Portugal - Fado Coimbra and Fado Lisboa. Both have different motivations, beginnings, and use slightly different instruments, amongst other things. The Fado Coimbra is played using the Guitarra Portuguesa and viola. It is said that there is a slight sitar influence in making the Guitarra Portuguesa.

As stated above, the Fado Coimbra is closely linked to the academic traditions of the University of Coimbra and it is mainly sung by men. The university students would sing of their homesickness, longing for their families, leaving youth, or towards the end of their education, leaving Coimbra.
They would also serenade their beloved with Fado, sitting underneath their beloved's window. The men would pour out their sorrows, asking, begging, and pleading for their beloved to become one with them and make these troubles disappear. The girl indicates her 'interest' by switching on and off her lights three times. The students in Coimbra would usually sing in a group, dressed entirely in black.

The beginnings of Fado Coimbra are difficult to be determined, but it is said to have emerged from the minstrels and jesters who provided entertainment to the courts during the Middle Ages. Some say it has Brazilian influence - brought back from Brazil and adapted to the Portuguese culture.

Today, performances of Fado Coimbra have become somewhat of a cultural tradition. Groups of male students will wear the traditional capes while they serenade and honour the faculty at the end of the academic cycle. This tradition has spread to many of the Portuguese universities but remains in its truest form in Coimbra.

You can listen to the Fado Coimbra at the Fado Centre or at some restaurants/ bars in Coimbra. The performance at the Fado Centre is performed by current and former university students. You will need to book seats as it is usually packed.

Statue outside the Fado Centre - love this

After the Fado performance, I went to the very close-by Fangas Mercearia Bar for dinner. There are some vegetarian options to choose from - Hallelujah!

Bacalhau with spinach

Bean stew with mushrooms

The food was delish. Definitely a good place to have a pleasant dinner.

If you do have a chance, do try the sparkling red wine from the nearby wine region. I still prefer my still red wine, though. There are other wines to select from as well - Rosé, White and Red (in still or sparkling form).

That's a wrap of Coimbra. I will now end this post with.......